 History of Paithani goes back to the 7th century B.C. during the Yadav
period (Sri Krishna's period). Deriving its name from Paithan situated in Aurangabad
district in Maharashtra, the paithani saree was traditionally a part of the trousseau of
every Maharashtrian bride. This is a hand woven silk saree with a rich, ornamental Zari
(gold thread) pallav and border. On a zari warp thread the weft is interlocked with
different colours using tiny cloth pins or 'tillies'. The motifs are traditional vines and
flowers, shapes of fruit and stylized forms of birds and the saree is often known by the
motif that dominates its border or pallav. The perennial beauty and painstaking
workmanship of the Paithani saree takes atleast a month and a half for creating the
simplest Paithani and up to nine months to make the more richly ornamented elaborate one.
Because of their enduring quality and beauty Paithani sarees are handed down as an
heirloom from mother to daughter for several generations.Paithani sarees are woven in
thick silk and the weaving is similar to Tapestry Weaving in plain weave.
The speciality is that the design being woven
is done without the assistance of a mechanical contrivance like the jacquard or jala on a
frame loom. It uses multiple "Tillis" or spindles to weave in the design. The
design framework is linear and exquisite, enamelled floral birds especially the peacock
and parrot (munia) forms are woven in gold on the "Palav and Border". The back
and face of the sari is very similar as it is woven in tapestry method. The jari used in
the sari is on silk thread with twisted silver jari coated with gold. Sometimes cotton
thread with twisted jari is used. |
