 Epics like the Ramayan and Narsinha Puran refer to the use of Patola
in marriage ceremonies as an auspicious garment. This traditional art received great
patronage during the Chalukya period. Till today the special technique of the handmade
silk Patola uses the same special technique for weaving from raw silk to the completion of
the Patola fabric. The weaver makes the special Patola loom and colouring from indigenous
natural materials. The main patola designs are pan bhat – leaf design, ratan chok
bhat – jewel square, popat kunjar bhat – parrot and elephant design, nari kunjar
bhat – woman and elephant design, chhabadi bhat – basket design and vohra gali
bhat – pattern preferred by Vohra Muslims.
The designs, which may comprise floral or
animal motifs, are first drawn on paper to achieve accuracy and accordingly warp and weft
are tied into knots and then dyed into different colours. The weaving needs care in
uniting a particular colour in the weft with that in the warp. Only 5 to 6 inches a day
can be woven to achieve a smooth and identical finish on both sides of the fabric. The
magnificent coloured highly prized Patola saree takes nearly one to one & half years
to complete and is preserved as an heirloom. |
