It is an ancient art of creating a model of a 'repeat' of motifs
or designs with the help of a bamboo needle over threads tied to a bamboo stick. This
craft was brought to India by a saint called Khwaja Bahauddin Bukhari from Bukhara in
Russia. One type of Benaras Saree is the fine see-through gauze fabric ornamented with
gold and silver borders, butties and pallav. The other is the thicker fabric, the
'kinkhab' originally designed by weavers in Gujarat and predominantly woven in coloured
silks. Weavers weave the most exquisite brocades in silk and gold on simple pit looms. The
designs are created by 'Naksha Bandhas' which are frames tied to the loom. At times more
than six shuttles are used to get multiple colours in the 'butas' or ornamentation used on
the body of the cloth.
|