History of Paithani goes back to the 7th century B.C. during the
Yadav period (Sri Krishna's period). Deriving its name from Paithan situated in
Aurangabad district in Maharashtra, the paithani saree was traditionally a part of the
trousseau of every Maharashtrian bride. This is a hand woven silk saree with a rich,
ornamental Zari (gold thread) pallav and border. On a zari warp thread the weft is
interlocked with different colours using tiny cloth pins or 'tillies'. The motifs are
traditional vines and flowers, shapes of fruit and stylized forms of birds and the saree
is often known by the motif that dominates its border or pallav. The perennial beauty and
painstaking workmanship of the Paithani saree takes atleast a month and a half for
creating the simplest Paithani and up to nine months to make the more richly ornamented
elaborate one. Because of their enduring quality and beauty Paithani sarees are handed
down as an heirloom from mother to daughter for several generations.Paithani sarees are
woven in thick silk and the weaving is similar to Tapestry Weaving in plain weave.
The speciality is that the design being woven
is done without the assistance of a mechanical contrivance like the jacquard or jala on a
frame loom. It uses multiple "Tillis" or spindles to weave in the design. The
design framework is linear and exquisite, enamelled floral birds especially the peacock
and parrot (munia) forms are woven in gold on the "Palav and Border". The back
and face of the sari is very similar as it is woven in tapestry method. The jari used in
the sari is on silk thread with twisted silver jari coated with gold. Sometimes cotton
thread with twisted jari is used. |
